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Information, insights, advice, reviews, and recommendations about travel to and around Israel

West Bank

Everything You Want to See in Bethlehem

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When most people think about the places they want to go in Israel, Bethlehem tops the list. It’s the place where Jesus was born, but that is only scratching the surface of this small town’s importance and appeal. There are some very underrated gems in Bethlehem, including these.

Church of the Nativity and Church of St. Catherine’s

This church was built over the place where it is believed Jesus was born. Its affiliation is shared with Roman Catholic, Armenian Apostolic, Greek Orthodox, Coptic Orthodox, Ethiopian Tewahedo Orthodox, and Syriac Orthodox churches.

The Grotto below the church is the main attraction here. You’ll see the 14-pointed star that marks the birthplace, as well as the traditional site of the manger where Jesus was laid after he was born. This church was designated a as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012 and is a must-see for Christian visitors.

The Shepherds’ Fields

The Shepherd’s Fields are the same fields where angels appeared to shepherds to tell of Jesus’ birth. You’ll see the Church of the Shepherds’ Field while you’re here, and there is a cave here that you can go inside to see what a “stable” was like in biblical times. Interestingly, these are the same fields where David was a shepherd as a boy, before he defeated Goliath and became King David.

Rachel’s Tomb (Kever Rachel)

Near the North Checkpoint (aka Rachel’s Tomb Checkpoint) into Bethlehem, you’ll find Rachel’s Tomb. Like Jerusalem, it’s a site that’s important to three major religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Rachel was Jacob’s wife and mother of Joseph (the one with the coat of many colors). Genesis 35 says that she died in childbirth on the road to Bethlehem (called Ephrath at the time). There is now a domed tomb at the site, which people of all three faiths visit.

Milk Grotto

This is a unique site that’s not mentioned in the Bible, but it is frequently visited by both Christians and Muslims. Tradition says that a drop of Mary’s milk fell on the ground of this small, hollowed-out grotto, and that turned the inside of the grotto white. Women hoping to conceive or to have more milk production for their babies will sometimes take some of the chalk from the cave and mix it with their food, then pray to Mary. There is a small chapel here, and the site was recognized by Pope Gregory XI in 1375.

Banksy Street Art

Banksy, the famed British graffiti artist, has a special affinity for Palestine and its people. He started creating art in the West Bank and Gaza Strip in 2005, and there are several to be found in Bethlehem. In fact, you can take an entire tour of just Banksy’s street art on a trip here.

5 Things to Know Before You Visit Qumran and the Dead Sea Scroll Caves

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Qumran National Park is on many Israel itineraries, but you may not really know what that is based on the name alone. You are more likely familiar with what it’s known for: The Dead Sea Scrolls. The first of over 1,000 well-preserved scrolls were discovered here in the 1940s. The scrolls were hand-written copies of every book of the Old Testament (with the exception of Esther) dating back well over 2,000 years. Here are a few things you know before you see the caves for yourself.

It’s in the West Bank

This isn’t really a problem, just an issue of geography. Because it’s in the West Bank, you may (or may not) be asked for your passport on your way back across the border. Just make sure you have it with you. The caves and visitor center are about 45 minutes from Jerusalem, near the Dead Sea at Kalya. Unlike other West Bank sites like Bethlehem and Jericho, you don’t need a Palestinian guide or driver to visit.

The Dead Sea Scrolls are… Not Here

It may seem odd, but you won’t find any scrolls here, unless there are some undiscovered others still hidden away. The Dead Sea Scrolls were almost perfectly preserved here, due to the dry and salty climate, but since being discovered, they have moved to a variety of museums and climate-controlled museum warehouses. You can see some of the most intact scrolls in the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

The Scrolls were Found by Accident

It’s true. A couple of teenage shepherd boys from the local Ta’amira tribe were tending their goats and sheep around caves in the Qumran area. One of the boys would throw a rock into one of the caves every time he passed it, and he would hear the sound of breaking pottery, which he thought was odd.

When they went inside the cave, they found several large, clay jars. Some of them contained what we now know as the Dead Sea Scrolls. At first no one thought much of them–in fact, some of the scrolls were sold in the Wall Street Journal’s classified ads in 1954! Once people realized their significance, however, everybody and their brother started poking around the caves to see what else was there. The rest is history.

It was Once a “City of Salt” and Home to the Essenes

The site where the Qumran Caves are located was once home to a Jewish sect called the Essenes. When you visit, you’ll see the foundations of buildings, pools for bathing, and other ruined elements of an entire city. These are possibly the people who copied and hid the Dead Sea Scrolls, and the visitor center and museum onsite will give you an idea of who these people were and how they lived.

It’s the Perfect Stop on a Day Trip to the Dead Sea

Qumran is definitely a worthwhile stop on a day trip from Jerusalem, but don’t make it your only stop. On your way here, be sure to stop off at Jericho and/or Jesus’ Baptismal Site (Qasr El-Yahud). Continuing on, you could also visit Ein Gedi and go for a float in the Dead Sea.

Would you like to take a day trip to see where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered?

How to Visit Jesus’ (Real) Baptismal Site

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There’s a controversy in Israel. Well, there are several controversies in Israel. But there is one very important site for Christians that holds a bit of controversy: Where was Jesus baptized? The interesting thing is that we do know where it happened, but for years, Christians were told it was somewhere else. Curious? Keep reading.

Wait, there’s more than one baptismal site?

Well, yes there is. For many years (and sometimes still), Christian tourists were directed to a place called Yardenit at the southern tip of the Sea of Galilee. That’s because the actual site in the West Bank, Qasr El-Yahud, was an inaccessible Jordanian military zone. It was literally in the middle of a mine field, making it completely unsafe for tourists.

The misdirection wasn’t intended to be deceptive so much as protective. Christians wanted to see where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist, but it was far too dangerous. So they came up with the site in the Galilee region, where Christians were already visiting anyway, because Jesus lived and did so many of his miracles there. It made sense, and it kept the tourists safe.

Today, however, the landmines near the site have been cleared enough that is it perfectly safe to visit. In fact, it’s a great site to include with a day trip that includes Jericho, Masada, the Dead Sea, Ein Gedi, etc.

How can I get to Qasr El-Yahud?

This site is in the West Bank, but it is accessible by car (not Israel-licensed rental car). Many tour buses make the trip out here as well. Public buses (961, 966, and 967) all come within 3.5 miles of the site, but you’ll still need transportation to get to the actual Qasr El-Yahud site. It’s best to go with a tour guide who is also a driver so you don’t need to deal with the logistics.

Can I get baptized there?

Yes, you can. Many Christians choose to be baptized, or even re-baptized here. Those who choose to can rent white baptismal clothes from the gift shop and visitor center at the site.

Is this site only for Christians?

Actually, this site just so happens to be an important one in Jewish history as well. According to Joshua 3, this is the site where the Israelites crossed the Jordan into the Promised Land of Israel after wandering in the desert for 40 years. Many see Jesus’ baptism here as symbolic for that reason.

Can I cross over to the Jordanian side?

Well, yes, but you can’t get there from here. There are three designated crossing points for the Israeli-Jordanian border, none of which is here. You’ll have to cross by land or air (from TLV to AMM), as crossing the Jordan River is prohibited the entire length of the border.

Is Qasr El-Yahud on your must-see list of places to go on your trip to Israel?

The Best Day Trips from Jerusalem

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If you’re visiting Israel, odds are good that you’ll be based in Jerusalem, even if only for a few days. It’s the epicenter of holy sites for the world’s three main religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. But it’s also a great place to base yourself for several day trips (or half-day trips, as time allows). Here are the top destinations to consider when planning your trip, several of which can be combined into one day to truly maximize your time!

Best Day Trips from Jerusalem

The Valley of Elah

Lots of tour groups and individuals skip the Valley of Elah, but once they find out what it is, they’re disappointed that they missed it. No, there are no historic churches, mosques, or synagogues here to mark the spot. No, it’s not at the top of any “must do in Israel” list (except this one). So why bother?

Well, this is where David fought Goliath! Just under an hour from Jerusalem, this is a great half-day excursion any time of year. Start at Tel Azeka, where you can get a full view of the valley and the positioning of the Philistine and Hebrew troops as described in the Bible.

If you want to make this a more active excursion, plan to hike down into the valley and take in the view from below. Take the Tel Azeka Loop (1.4 miles total), and bring your Bible to read 1 Samuel 17 while you’re at it for reference.

A trip to the Valley of Elah can easily be combined with a trip to Tel Aviv-Jaffa.

Tel Aviv-Jaffa

While Tel Aviv is a destination in itself, you can definitely hit the highlights in a day if you’re pressed for time, especially if you’re planning to base yourself in Jerusalem for your trip. 

Start in Jaffa, and take a walking tour if you can. This was Israel’s main port city in ancient times, so it’s worth a look if you’re here for the history. Take a walking tour to see where Jonah set out to sea while avoiding God’s plan for Nineveh (Book of Jonah), see where Tabitha was raised from the dead (Acts 9:36-43), and stand in the place where Peter had a vision that meant Christianity was for all, not just the Jews (Acts 10:9-16).

Tel Aviv, on the other hand, is much more modern and progressive. As much as Jerusalem is conservative and pious, Tel Aviv is liberal and vibrant. Come for the beaches and boardwalks, check out the water sports, explore the museums, and indulge in diverse the international food scene. Plan to stay for the night? This is also the headquarters of Israel’s nightlife scene.

A trip to Tel-Aviv-Jaffa can easily be combined with a stop at the Valley of Elah.

Bethlehem

You already have this one on your “must go” list, right? It’s Jesus’ birthplace (Luke 2), so if you’re a Christian traveling to Israel, it’s basically the whole reason you’re coming! But even if you’re not religious, this is still such a famous and momentous place that you’ll still want to include it on your itinerary. You can see everything you want to see here in half a day, but if you have a full day to spend, you won’t get bored. 

Just be aware that Bethlehem is in the West Bank, which is a Palestinian Territory. That means you’ll need to bring your passport and arrange for a Palestinian guide and driver for the day. Also plan to either leave your rental car in the parking lot outside the checkpoint, plan to take the bus, or arrange for a driver to get you there and pick you up after. 

Tons of people do this, so don’t be intimidated by the logistics. This is one place in Israel, however, where it pays to go with a reputable company that can configure the logistics for you. 

A trip to Bethlehem can be combined with Jericho and/or Qasr El-yahud.

Jericho

It’s kind of ironic that you can take a day trip to the oldest city in the world, isn’t it? Dating back to around 9,000 B.C., it’s also the longest continuously-occupied city in the world. It’s also in the West Bank, like Bethlehem, so you will want to arrange for a Palestinian or Arab guide and driver for the day.

Jericho is famous for Jews and Christians as the city whose walls were miraculously crumbled in Joshua chapter 6. But Jesus was also familiar with the city thousands of years later. He met Zacchaeus, the short and hated tax collector, here in a Sycamore tree (Luke 19:1-10). Your guide may even be able to point out what is believed to be this same tree when you come.

A trip to Jericho can be combined with excursions to Bethlehem and/or Qasr El-yahud.

Qasr El-Yahud (Jesus’ Baptismal Site)

Another West Bank site (though easier for Israeli guides to bring you to) is the place on the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized (Matthew 3:13-17). It’s not far from Jericho, so it’s an easy site to add on to a day trip there as well. Just pay attention to its closing time in the afternoon.

The site is called Qasr El-yahud, which means “Tower” or “Castle of the Jews.” John the Baptist and Jesus’ disciples baptized many people here, making it an important place for Christians to visit. However, it’s also believed to be the site where the Israelites crossed into the Promised Land after the Exodus from Egypt and 40 years of wandering in the desert. That makes it an important place in Jewish history as well. 

A trip to Qasr El-yahud can be combined with Qumran, Jericho and/or Bethlehem.

Qumran (Dead Sea Scroll Caves)

You can actually see some of the Dead Sea Scrolls in the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, which you should definitely do. But if you want to see the caves where they were found, you’ll need to plan a day trip to Qumran, about 45 minutes southeast of Jerusalem.

Here, you’ll learn about when and how the scrolls were discovered, then head outside to see some of the caves themselves. Make sure you can do this one early in the day in the summer months. The desert location far below sea level grows far too hot by afternoon.

A trip to Qumran can easily be combined with trips to Jericho, Qasr El-yahud, Ein Gedi, Masada, and/or the Dead Sea.

Ein Gedi

This site is notable for being the largest oasis in Israel, complete with palm groves and even an epic waterfall. The freshwater source here means it’s been inhabited for millennia, almost continuously. Presently, the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve is one of the most popular sites in Israel, so it very well may already be on your list of places to go on your trip. 

Aside from the draw of natural beauty, Ein Gedi also has Biblical history attached. Joshua 15 mentions Ein Gedi as one of the wilderness cities that belonged to the Tribe of Judah. King David hid at Ein Gedi in 1 Samuel 23:29. And King Solomon wrote about vineyards of Ein Gedi in Song of Solomon 1:14. 

A trip to Ein Gedi can easily be combined with trips to Jericho, Qasr El-yahud, Qumran, Masada, and/or the Dead Sea.

Masada

Speaking of hot places, this one is popular at sunrise for a reason! Situated on a plateau overlooking the desert on three sides and the Dead Sea on the fourth, Masada has a long, difficult, important history for the Jewish people. 

Masada was originally built as a fortress by King Herod the Great around 37 B.C. In 73 A.D., a group of nearly 1,000 Jewish men, women, and children lived here while under siege by the Roman army. When defeat was imminent, a group of Jewish men killed everyone there, including each other, with the last man standing committing suicide. Only two women and five children survived to tell the historian and writer, Josephus, what happened, which is how we know about it today.

It’s an active archaeological site now, complete with fortress ruins and a state-of-the-art steam room once used by King Herod. Many Jewish families have a tradition of doing the hike up to Masada at sunrise for a child’s 12th birthday, but you’ll also find tourists doing this sunrise hike as well. You can hike (about 45-60 minutes each way) or take the cable car to the top and back down, or a combination of the two. Either way, don’t forget to take in the views along the way.

A trip to Masada can easily be combined with trips to Jericho, Qasr El-yahud, Qumran, Ein Gedi, and/or the Dead Sea.

The Dead Sea

This is a bucket list item for many, and it’s an easy day trip to pair with several others on this list (Qasr El-Yahud, Qumran, Masada, Ein Gedi). It’s one of the lowest and saltiest places in the world, coming in at over 1,300 feet below sea level and over 34% salinity. What else makes it unique? The salinity allows visitors not to swim, but to float!

The Dead Sea is mentioned by a few different names in the Bible (the “Salt Sea,” “Sea of Arabah,” and the “Eastern Sea,” to name a few), but most importantly it’s referred to as the eastern border of Israel (Numbers 34:12). Also interestingly, biblical Sodom and Gomorrah, along with the supposed remains of Lot’s wife (Genesis 19), are located on the southeastern side of the Dead Sea, in Jordan. 

While you’re here, be sure to take a float and try the healing, exfoliating, skin-softening mud, too. Not into a mud bath? You can purchase products made from the minerals (and mud) of the Dead Sea to take home with you instead.

A trip to the Dead Sea can easily be combined with trips to Jericho, Qasr El-yahud, Qumran, Ein Gedi, and/or Masada.

Day Trips Not Recommended from Jerusalem

Jerusalem is a great place to base yourself for several day trips (or half-day trips), but it’s not perfect for exploring all of Israel. If you plan to visit Haifa, Caesarea, or Akko (aka Acre), Tel Aviv is a better base for that. If you’re interested in visiting Nazareth, Galilee, Capernaum, Migdal, or the Golan Heights, Tiberias in the Galilee region is a better place to stay for a night or two to see all of those places at a more leisurely pace.

Biblical Sites in the West Bank

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The West Bank covers a huge portion of the area currently controlled by the State of Israel. But because the West Bank is one of the two Palestinian Territories (the other is Gaza, where you definitely should not go, nor would you be allowed to!) , people are sometimes nervous about visiting sites in the West Bank, or they plan to visit them on their own and then find out they can’t take their rental car across the border between Israel and the West Bank. But there are many sites worth seeing in the West Bank, especially for Christians. Here are the must-see Biblical sites in the West Bank!

Jericho 

Every kid who ever went to Sunday school knows about Jericho. The Israelites marched around and around the city every day for a whole week, they blew their horns, and the “walls came tumbling down!” As a little kid, hearing about that happening was epic.

And when we got older, we all learned about the scandalous harlot Rahab—who, let’s not forget, ended up in the lineage of Jesus. The account of Jericho appeals to a broad audience, and it’s one of the places you know you want to see on your trip to Israel.

But let’s not forget about the Jericho that Jesus knew, and another beloved Bible story from Sunday school. He was just passing through Jericho, and one of the most unlikely people showed an interest in him. Zacchaeus, the chief tax collector and probably least popular person in town, was too short to see Jesus over the crowd, so he climbed up in a sycamore tree to see. (Luke 19:1-10) And you can see where it happened when you visit Jericho for yourself.

Hebron

About an hour south of Jerusalem is a West Bank town called Hebron. It may seem vaguely familiar, but also maybe not, so no worries if it doesn’t. Abraham and Sarah lived and are buried here, making Hebron an important site for Muslims, Jews, and Christians alike. Muslims call this the Sanctuary of Abraham, and Jews and Christians both know it as the Cave of the Patriarchs. (Genesis chapters 13, 23, 25, 47, and 49) 

Later in the Old Testament, in Joshua 14:13, Joshua gave Hebron to Caleb as an inheritance. In fact, King David ruled from Hebron for seven and a half years until he moved into Jerusalem. (2 Samuel 2:8-11)

Qasr El-Yahud 

This site is actually important for both Jews and Christians. This is the crossing point of the Jordan River where the Israelites were finally able to enter the Promised Land after wandering in the desert for 40 years. It’s still the present-day border between Jordan and Israel or the West Bank. (Joshua 3)

But Christians have another reason to want to visit Qasr El-Yahud. This is the place where John the Baptist baptized many people, including Jesus. Many people choose to be baptized here, so the gift shop offers white robes and towels (for a fee) for those who want to be baptized in the same place as Jesus. (Matthew 3:15 and Mark 1:9)

Qumran Caves

You won’t find an exact mention of Qumran or the caves in the Bible, but they are very important to Biblical history. In the 1940s, local shepherds found the first of nearly 1,000 scrolls that would become known as the Dead Sea Scrolls. They are the earliest copies we have of the books of the Old Testament, with the exception of the book of Esther. 

The dry climate at the Dead Sea – and inside these caves – is perfect for preserving manuscripts like these. The scrolls themselves are on display in a handful of museums around the world, including several at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem. 

Dead Sea

Part of the Dead Sea lies within the borders of the West Bank, part of it lies within the Israeli border, and of course the eastern side belongs to the country of Jordan. The same is true in the Bible: The Dead Sea, the Salt Sea, and the Valley of Siddim are all terms used to describe this unique lake in the Bible as the eastern border of Israel. (Numbers 34:12)

Bethlehem

This is the birthplace of Jesus, so there are several important sites visitors want to see here. You can visit the Shepherds’ Field, birthplace, and caves where the family stayed while they were in Bethlehem. If you’re a Christian, you may want to tour the sites with a Palestinian Christian guide for a truly local perspective – their home church will be one of the churches built over the sites you came to see. How cool would it be to know that the place where you worship every Sunday is the same place where Jesus was born? (Luke 2)

Also interesting is that this isn’t just Jesus’ first hometown. It was also King David’s hometown. Before he knocked out Goliath and became King of all Israel, David was the youngest son of a local family and a shepherd in the fields you came to see. (1 Samuel 16:1-13) Going back even further in Jewish history, this is also the hometown of Ruth and Boaz. (Book of Ruth) These people—among others—were all from Bethlehem and mentioned in the lineage of Jesus. (Luke 3:23-38)